Apollonia Poilâne

Forewaord by Alice Waters

Ruffage

By: Abra Berens
Illustrated by Lucy Engelman
Photographs by EE BergerSee it here

Cheddar

I like journeys. Predating my “career” as a cheesemonger, I had a teen obsession with a book on roadside attractions. I had the opportunity to visit quite a few in California growing up, then many more in some cross-country drives in the mid-eighties, but for some reason (one might call it fate) the page featuring “The World’s Largest Cheese” called to me—but it just didn’t fit into any of the routes I took. Even as I later visited Wisconsin on cheese business, I could never quite accomplish my quest. So finally, about ten years ago, when a friend needed help