All About Braising The Art of Uncomplicated Cooking

Molly Stevens Molly Stevens is an award-winning cookbook author, an editor and a cooking teacher. Her two cookbooks, All About Roasting: A New Look at a Classic Art (2011) and All About Braising: The Art of Uncomplicated Cooking (2004) both earned James Beard Awards and IACP (International Association of Culinary Professionals) awards. Molly’s articles and recipes appear regularly in Fine Cooking magazine where she is a contributing editor. Her recipes and tips have also appeared in The Wall Street Journal, Everyday with Rachel Ray, Real Simple, Bon Appétit, Saveur, Eating Well, Yankee, Easy Living (UK), Drinks, Real Food, and House & Garden (South Africa) magazines. Molly is the co-editor of The 150 Best American Recipes, as well as the annual Best American Recipes series (Houghton-Mifflin). Previously, Molly co-authored One Potato, Two Potato (Houghton-Mifflin). She also wrote New England, part of the Williams-Sonoma New American Cooking Series (Time-Life). Honored by Bon Appétit magazine and the IACP as “Cooking Teacher of the Year,” Molly has been described in the New York Times Book Review as “a beautifully clear writer who likes to teach.” Classically trained as a chef in France, Molly has directed programs and taught at the French Culinary Institute, New England Culinary Institute, and L’Ecole de Cuisine La Varenne in Burgundy, France and Venice, Italy. Molly continues to travel and teach cooking classes across the country. She serves on the board of directors for The Intervale Center and lives near Burlington, Vermont.

“The clearest directions I’ve ever read thread the way with ease to perfect braises, those most succulent of dishes.” — Deborah Madison, author of Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone

“Stevens smashes the braising barrier and proves that she is a gifted technician as well as a world class teacher.” — Alton Brown, host of Good Eats on the Food Network

“So welcome after the plethora of books on how to cook everything in 5 minutes.” — Diana Kennedy, author of From My Mexican Kitchen and The Essential Cuisines of Mexico

“I know that All About Braising will become a treasure in my own kitchen.” — Anne Willan, founder, Ecole de Cuisine La Varenne

“Filled with friendly advice, inspired insights, and great recipes, it will make you a better cook.” — Judy Rodgers, author of The Zuni Café Cookbook

“A great book, one that everyone who’s interested in cooking should take time to read, and more importantly, to use.” — Ari Weinzweig, founding partner, Zingerman’s Community of Businesses, and author of Zingerman’s Guide to Good Eating

Braised Potatoes with Garlic & Bay Leaves

I make this simple dish so often, and without thinking, that I really had to scratch my head to come up with an actual recipe. Let me explain: I start by placing as many potatoes as I want to braise in a single layer in any saucepan that accommodates them snugly without crowding. Then I pour in enough water or stock to come halfway up the potatoes and add a generous drizzle of olive oil, a few whole cloves of garlic, bay leaves, salt, and pepper. I pop on the lid, and braise gently until the potatoes are tender. During the last few minutes, I remove the lid, crank up the heat to evaporate the water, and shake the pan back and forth so the potatoes roll around and get coated in the garlicky-olive oil glaze that’s forming. The potatoes come out all creamy and delicately infused with the flavors of bay and garlic. Look for small potatoes that you can braise whole. I especially like German Butterball and French fingerlings, but regular supermarket small red potatoes are wonderful too.

Serves 4 to 6 | Braising Time: about 25 minutes

1 1/2 pounds small red or white potatoes, scrubbed

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup water or chicken stock, homemade (page 448) or store-bought, or as needed

2 bay leaves, fresh if you can find them

2 to 3 garlic cloves, peeled and bruised

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Evaluate the potatoes: If the potatoes are larger than a golf ball, cut them in half. If you are leaving them whole, check to see if they have thick skins by scraping your thumbnail across the skin. If the skin doesn’t tear, remove a strip of skin around the circumference of each potato with a vegetable peeler—this will allow the flavors of the braising liquid to penetrate the potato better. If the skins are relatively thin, leave them intact.

2. The braise: Place the potatoes in a saucepan large enough to hold them in a snug single layer without crowding. Add the olive oil and pour in enough water or stock to come halfway up the sides of the potatoes. Tear the bay leaves in half and add them along with the garlic. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and bring to a simmer over medium heat. When the water is simmering, lower the heat to medium-low so the liquid simmers gently. Braise, lifting the lid and turning the potatoes with a spoon once halfway through, until the potatoes are just tender when pierced with a thin skewer, about 20 minutes.

3. The finish: Remove the lid, increase the heat to high, and boil, gently shaking the pan back and forth, until the water evaporates and you can hear the oil sizzle, about 5 minutes. The braised garlic cloves will break down and coat the potatoes as you shake the pan. Serve hot.

Variation: Braised Potatoes with Butter & Rosemary

Once you’ve braised small potatoes a few times, you’ll see that the recipe is ripe for improvisation. Feel free to vary the herbs, substitute dry white wine for the chicken stock or water, or use butter in place of olive oil. One of my favorite variations is to use 2 leafy sprigs of rosemary in place of the bay leaves and butter in place of the olive oil. Use chicken stock as the braising liquid and braise as directed.

Recipe from All About Braising: The Art of Uncomplicated Cooking, by Molly Stevens (WW Norton)